ENGLISH
This post may have to be in English only as I must leave Kendari soon.
Pasarwajo is a narrow strip of populated land round the edge of a large bay, across the island from Kota Bau Bau. At a guess, the village is at least 10km long but only three streets deep. Two reasons for this lengthways spread would be that fishing provides most of both income and food, and the unique means of water supply.
All fresh water, for drinking, cooking and washing, comes from underground, called 'sumber' . The houses can have a well to tap into this resource. However there are many other outlets: fresh water pours from the beach and cliff; one outlet forms the only above ground river, a broad but short stretch of cold water through part of the village which provides a large public swimming pool and entertainment area; and then there is the sumber that emerges under the sea.
The sumber can appear on the surface of the sea as a large circle, at least 30 metres across. These circles disappear due to tide or wind, but the water still pours out, cold and fresh. It appears as a crackle on the surface of the sea, like thin ice, and is drinkable.
I walked out from the beach about 20 metres and swam from knee deep water, over the coral, to a drop of about 10 metres with a shelving floor which soon disappeared into a deep blueness. I saw only small fish, but a huge variety of type and colours. I saw a kerupa fish, which looks like it is decorated with delicate white lace medallions on a black background, with frills. Also many tiny creatures in blue or yellow decorate the coral. There were bright yellow box fish, long thin grey fish, pale pink flat fish and short black fish. The layers of coral are undisturbed on the edges of the hole, though there were several boats moored nearby. As the refractive index of fresh water is different from sea water, many photos appeared crinkled.
We went to the Keraton, the seat of government many years ago, similar to the Keraton in Bau Bau: here too there is the meeting place; the area where the newly elected king makes a promise to his people; and the walls and gateways, mostly in very good condition. I am the first foreign visitor to ever go inside. Now used for farming, women were weeding the cassava crop with large curved knives.
We also visited a bajo village, situated at the end of a long concrete pier. A strong tide can flow through narrow gaps in low stone walls, but the village is protected from large waves by the surrounding shallow water. Deepwater fishing is 1 km away. With about 70 buildings and a population of 500, the village seems to be surviving well in spite of the constant problem of fresh water which has to be purchased and carried in. A sumber near the shore is used for washing clothes. We watched the people, even young children, walk confidently along single plank pathways that connect the houses two metres above the water on crooked poles. Most of the children were too shy to stay to be photographed.
At Daf's family home we ate a lot of delicious fish; with nasi kuning, in palumara, and grilled - all my favourite dishes. We ate mangga apel, mangga madu and nangka. I did find it difficult to sleep at night in a small room without air conditioning but it was still a very enjoyable trip, which I hope to make again to see more of Pulau Buton.
0 comments:
Post a Comment