Desa Pasarwajo di Pulau Buton = Village of Pasarwajo in Buton Island

ENGLISH

This post may have to be in English only as I must leave Kendari soon.

Pasarwajo is a narrow strip of populated land round the edge of a large bay, across the island from Kota Bau Bau. At a guess, the village is at least 10km long but only three streets deep. Two reasons for this lengthways spread would be that fishing provides most of both income and food, and the unique means of water supply. 

All fresh water, for drinking, cooking and washing, comes from underground, called 'sumber' . The houses can have a well to tap into this resource. However there are many other outlets: fresh water pours from the beach and cliff; one outlet forms the only above ground river, a broad but short stretch of cold water through part of the village which provides a large public swimming pool and entertainment area; and then there is the sumber that emerges under the sea.

The sumber can appear on the surface of the sea as a large circle, at least 30 metres across. These circles disappear due to tide or wind, but the water still pours out, cold and fresh. It appears as a crackle on the surface of the sea, like thin ice, and is drinkable. 

I walked out from the beach about 20 metres and swam from knee deep water, over the coral, to a drop of about 10 metres with a shelving floor which soon disappeared into a deep blueness. I saw only small fish, but a huge variety of type and colours. I saw a kerupa fish, which looks like it is decorated with delicate white lace medallions on a black background, with frills. Also many tiny creatures in blue or yellow decorate the coral. There were bright yellow box fish, long thin grey fish, pale pink flat fish and short black fish. The layers of coral are undisturbed on the edges of the hole, though there were several boats moored nearby. As the refractive index of fresh water is different from sea water, many photos appeared crinkled.

We went to the Keraton, the seat of government many years ago, similar to the Keraton in Bau Bau: here too there is the meeting place; the area where the newly elected king makes a promise to his people; and the walls and gateways, mostly in very good condition. I am the first foreign visitor to ever go inside. Now used for farming, women were weeding the cassava crop with large curved knives.

We also visited a bajo village, situated at the end of a long concrete pier. A strong tide can flow through narrow gaps in low stone walls, but the village is protected from large waves by the surrounding shallow water. Deepwater fishing is 1 km away. With about 70 buildings and a population of 500, the village seems to be surviving well in spite of the constant problem of fresh water which has to be purchased and carried in. A sumber near the shore is used for washing clothes. We watched the people, even young children, walk confidently along single plank pathways that connect the houses two metres above the water on crooked poles. Most of the children were too shy to stay to be photographed. 

At Daf's family home we ate a lot of delicious fish; with nasi kuning, in palumara, and grilled - all my favourite dishes. We ate mangga apel, mangga madu and nangka. I did find it difficult to sleep at night in a small room without air conditioning but it was still a very enjoyable trip, which I hope to make again to see more of Pulau Buton. 

Pulau Buton = Buton Island

BAHASA INDONESIA
Kota Bau-Bau di Pulau Buton
Pada jam setengah dua siang, dengan teman-teman Dhenny dan Iradaf yang kedua berasal dari Pulau Buton, saya berangkat dari pelabuhan Kendari di bagian pinggir kota bernama Kota Tua. Kapal ini salah satunya feri modern yang diberikan alat angkutan di antaranya Kendari dan Pulau-Pulau Muna dan Buton dua kali sehari. Setiap feri  memberikan tempat duduk lebih dari lima ratus penumpang. Kemudian ada banyak penjual minuman dan makanan yang terus-menerus berjalan di lorong misalnya air tawar, kacang tanah, mie panas, lontong, dan makanan kecil yang lainnya.

Kita berangkat ke Teluk Kendari, kemudian tampak hutan dan bukit terus-menerus berada di luar jendela-jendela, perjalanan ini dilanjutkan selama lima jam. Akan tetapi, kedatangan ini hanya di Kota Raha, Pulau Muna. Selama satu setengah jam, lalu kami tiba di Kota Bau Bau, Pulau Bau Bau. Setiba di Buton, kami mencari penginapan untuk saya. Dhenny dan Daf menginap di rumah temannya. Kami melihat-lihat sekililing kota. Selanjutnya kami memulai makan cumi-cumi di Pantai Kamali; berikutnya kami menuju Kantor Walikota yang berada di bukit untuk melihat pemandangan yang malam. Di sana, ada seekor naga besar, yang kepalanya berada di pusat kota itu di Pantai Kamali. Akhirnya kami ketemu dengan teman Chaly dan Haerul dan minum sarabba di bukit Wantiro di mana ada pemandangan Pulau Makassar.

Pada hari berikutnya kami berkunjung ke Keraton Bau-Bau, daerah yang banyak tempat sejarahnya. Daf mengatakan tentang raja yang pertama kepada saya. Wanita ini berasal dari Cina, bernama Wa Ka Kaa yang hidup kira-kira lima ratus tahun yang lalu. Menurut cerita adat, dia lahir dari kayu bambu. Di Bau Bau Kabupaten, Wa Ka Kaa memulai demokrasi yang mungkin pertama di seluruh dunia, dengan adat yang setiap raja harus terpilih oleh orang-orang.

Menurut cerita adat lain, pada waktunya orang-orang mulai tiba di Buton mereka telah melihat kerang di tanah, jadi mereka memutuskan untuk mengangkat tanah baru dari laut. Akhirnya mereka memberikan nama tanah itu "Bau Bau" yang artinya "New Land' di bahasa Buton.

Berikutnya, saya mengatakan "Waktu untuk sarapan!" Ada nasi kuning yang lebih baik saya pernah makan [tidak hanya sebab saya begitu lapar!] dan kopi susu yang juga lezat. Kemudian ke Gua Lakasa, tetapi tidak beruntung gua tersebut di tutup, tetapi kami masuk lewat belakang gua tersebut yang berbentuk celah sempit yang hanya 50 meter dari laut. Di dasar celah ini ada air yang cerah dari di bawah tanah, jadi ini 'lubang berenang'yang populer.

Desa Pasarwajo
Kemudian Aris, sopir kami, menyetir di seberang pulau ini ke Desa Pasarwajo, di mana ada keluarga Iradaf, jadi kami menginap di rumahnya. Dengan sedih, saya tidak beruntung ketemu dengan ibu dan perempuan kakaknya. Akan tetapi kami semua menginap dengan paman, bibi dan sepupunya. Lewat ke desa itu, Aris berhenti jadi saya bisa melihat pohon Leda, yang jenis pohon sangat tinggi dan lurus sekali tanpa cabang sampai paling sedikit 20 meter dari tanah, dan juga dengan kulit pohon yang tipis, kelihatan seperti dengan pohon eucalyptus. Kayu pohon Leda tidak dianggap berharga tetapi pohon itu agak langka.

Banyak terima kasih ke Aris untuk menjadi penyetir dan juga untuk membantu saya mencari baterai cadangan untuk kamera, saya sangat senang kepadanya!

ENGLISH
City of Bau-Bau
At 1.30pm, with friends Dhenny and Iradaf who are both from Pualu Buton, I departed from the port of Kendari in the suburb called the Old City. This ship is one of the modern ferries which provide transport between Kendari and Islands Muna and Buton twice a day. Each ferry provides seating for more than 500 people. Then there are many sellers of food and drink who walk continuously in passageways selling drinking water, peanuts, hot noodles, rice wrapped in leaf, and other snacks

We exited Kendari Bay, then with forest and hills continuously visible outside the windows, this journey continued for five hours. However, this arrival was only at Kota Raha, Pulau Muna. After one and a half hours more, we arrived in Kota Bau Bau, Pulau Buton. On arrival in Bau Bau, we looked for lodging for me. Dhenny and Daf stayed with another friend. We looked around the city: first ate squid at Pantai Kamali; next drove to see night view from the hill called Kantor Walikota . There, there is the tail of a big dragon, whose head is in the centre of the city at Pantai Kamali. Finally we met with friends Chaly and Haerul and drank sarraba at Wantiro Hill where there is a view of Makassar Island.

Next day we visited Keraton Bau-Bau, an area where there are many historic places. Daf told me about the first raja. This was a Chinese woman, called Wa Ka Kaa who lived about 500 years ago. According to traditional story, she was born from bamboo. In the Regency of Bau Bau, Wa Ka Kaa began democracy which was probably first in the world, with tradition that each raja must be elected by the people.

According to another traditional story, at the time people first arrived in Pulau Buton they saw shells on the land, so they decided this land had recently risen from the sea.
 Finally they gave name "Bau Bau" to this land which means "New Land" in Bahasa Buton.

Next, I said "Time for breakfast!" There was nasi kuning that is best I have ever eaten [not only because I was so hungry!] and kopi susu which was also delicious. Then to Lakasa Cave, but unfortunately this cave was closed so continued to the end of the cave system to a narrow cleft which is only 50 metres from the sea. In the bottom of this cleft is clear water from underground so this is a popular swimming hole.

Village of Pasarwajo
Then Aris, our driver, drove across the island to Pasarwajo Village, where Iradaf's family live, so we all stayed in his family's house. Sadly, I was not able to meet his mother and sister but we stayed with his uncle, aunt and cousin. On the way to the village, Aris stopped so I could see Leda tree, which is type of very tall and straight tree without branches until at least 20 metres from the ground and also with thin bark, similar to eucalyptus tree. The wood of Leda tree is not considered valuable but still this tree is rather rare.

Many thanks to Aris for being our driver and also for helping me look for spare battery for camera, I was very happy when it was found!

Profile

I was born in Hobart in the state of Tasmania, Australia, as were both my children, and have lived in Tasmania all my life. I first visited Indonesia in February 2012 to meet the AYAD and NGO friends and workmates of my daughter Linda McRae after she died very suddenly in Bali International Hospital from a brain tumor. I returned with my son and my sister for a ceremony in Linda's memory, followed by the spreading of her ashes at Moramo waterfall near Kendari, Sulawesi Tenggara.

The next time I returned was to help Linda's NGO, LePMIL, finish her project, a movie intended to educate villagers on the need to not sell their land to mining companies as the short term prosperity would only bring long term hardship. We went to the village of Linomoyo where the movie, "Rawa Kehidupan", was filmed. Linda had excellent Bahasa Indonesia and made a huge impression on the villagers in just a few days. I met the community leader, Pak Taufiq, who said "Learn Indonesian and come back and talk with us".


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Kekacauan yang ada saat berbelanja di mandonga = Chaos that is shopping in Mandonga

BAHASA INDONESIA 

Kekacauan yang ada saat berbelanja di Mandonga

Mandonga adalah daerah perumahan di kota Kendari yang di sebelah daerah perumahan saya Kemaraya, yang juga di mana ada kantor LSM bernama LePMIL [Lembaga Penembangan Masyarakat Pesisir dan Pedalaman]. Sampai sekarang di Mandonga saya sudah terhadap banyak toko kecil, penjual di tepi jalan, satu pasar swalayan yang kecil, satu toko besar untuk pakaian barat yang bernama Barata, dan lalu ada Mall.

Mall itu sebenarnya dua gedung yang menghubungkan oleh pasar di sekililing, dan kedua gedung ini punya banyak pintu depan. Gedung itu yang depan berlantai tiga. dengan banyak toko kecil yang dijual HP, jam tangan dan IT, pakaian yang kebanyakan untuk wanita dan anak-anak, dan kain yang adat untuk sarong. Juga ada banyak hasil untuk perawatan bayi dan kecantikan hasil, ransel-ransel dan penjahit ahli yang membuat dan memperbaiki pakaian. Lorong-lorong yang sudah sempit ada sering penuh barang-barang yang akan digantung dari langit-langit dan dinding, dan ditimbun di lantai. Gedung itu masih ada kejutan untuk saya - sekarang ini saya terhadap pasar swalayan di ruang bawah tanah.

Di ruang bawah tanah gedung di belakang adalah salah satu pintu depan itu ke pasar adat, tempat yang mudah menjadi hilang. Kebanyakan menjual hanya makan, ada: banyak jenis sayur-sayuran, buah-buahan, ikan, oleskan, tempe, lombok dan bumbu lain, misalnya kunyit. Ada satu daerah yang untuk kelapa dan membuat santan saja, lainnya untuk ikan jemur. Ada satu kios yang mana saya sudah menjadi kenal karena sering membeli Es Teler atau Es Kelapa minuman di sana. 

Kemudian ada pasar di sekililing yang di jalan-jalan. Kalau saya mendekati Mall itu dari  kantornya, pertama saya harus melalui pasar ayam-ayam, di mana ada banyak-banyak ayam di kandang. Berikutnya ada toko-toko yang mana sapu, ember, payung dan arang dijual. Kemudian di satu tepi jalan ada toko-toko kecil, dan di lainnya ada penjual buah dan sayur, yang mana kacang tanah dijual, kedua kacang tanah yang mentah dan sudah masuk. Penjual ini sering duduk di tikar di bawah payung dengan hasil di dalam keranjang. Berikutnya ada kereta dorong penuh pengikat, alat-alat, lengket-lengket, dll. Selama Ramadan, kereta dorong ini akan menjadi penuh petasan dijual. Akhirnya di jalan ini ada kios-kios yang membuat kayu, di mana barang-barang barat dijual - ikat pinggang, topi pet, dompet.

Akan tetapi campur dengan semua barang-barang ini ada banyak kendaraan. Jalan itu yang dua jalur saja selalu penuh kendaraan: truk-truk, peteh-peteh, becak dan ojek. Sopir ini semua pikir jalan yang sempit ini selebar jalan raya! Sementara orang-orang harus jalan kaki di mana-mana mungkin. Sering, lalu lintas harus berhenti sementara pelanggan membeli mangga atau tukang becak mengolak lubang di jalan. Tentu saja, sopir ini juga memanggil terus-menurus untuk penumpang yang baru.

The chaos that is shopping in Mandonga:

Mandonga is a suburb of Kendari next to my suburb of Kemarayawhich is also where there is the office of NGO called LePMIL [Institute for community development for coastal and hinterland]. So far in Mandonga I have found many small shops, roadside sellers, one small supermarket, one large shop for western clothes called Barata, and then there is the Mall.

The Mall is actually two buildings connected by surrounding market, and both have many entrances. The front building has three floors, with many small shops selling  phones, watches and IT, clothes mostly for women and children, and traditional material for sarong. Also there are many babycare and beauty products, backpacks and professional sewers for making and mending clothes. Hallways which are already narrow are often full of things hung from ceiling and walls, and piled on the floor. This building still has surprises for me - recently I found a supermarket in the basement.

The basement of the building behind is one of the entrances to the traditional market, where it is easy to become lost. Mostly selling only food, there are: many types of vegetables, fruit, fish, oil, tempeh, chilli and other spices, for e.g. turmeric. There is one area which is for coconuts and making santan only, another for dried fish. There is one stall where I am known because I often buy Drunken Ice or Iced coconut juice there.

Then there is the surrounding market in the streets. When I approach the Mall from the office, I must first pass the chicken market, where there are many chickens in cages. Next are shops where brooms, buckets, umbrellas and charcoal are sold.  Then on one side of the street there are several small shops, and on the other there are fruit and vegetable sellers, where peanuts are sold, both raw and already cooked. The sellers often sit on a mat under an umbrella with their products in baskets. Next there are wheelbarrows full of string, tools, glue, etc. During Ramadan, these wheelbarrows will be full of fireworks for sale. Finally in this street there are stalls made of wood where western goods are sold - belts, caps, wallets. 

However mixed with all these goods are many vehicles. The two lane road is always full of vehicles: trucks, mini-buses, pedicabs and motorbikes. These drivers all think this narrow road is as wide as a highway! Meanwhile people must walk where ever possible. Often, traffic must stop while a customer buys mangoes or becak driver avoids a pothole. Of course, these drivers also call continuously for new customers.

Panjat Tebing = Rock Climbing

BAHASA

Selama tiga sudah ada persaingan panjat tebing di Kendari. Dinding besar itu sudah dibangun untuk penggunaan persaingan ini, dalam satu sudut tempat luas yang udara terbuka yang bernama MTQ. Ada beberapa kabupaten yang diwakili, semua dari kawasan Sulawesi Tenggara. Sesudah tingkat persaingan seperti begini, ada persaingan nasional untuk banyak olahraga, bernama Olympiad, yang mana hanya orang paling baik akan saing. 

Pada hari yang pertama, saingan harus memanjat secepat mungkin ke atas dinding. Pada hari yang kedua, mereka harus memanjat dinding dengan emper di atas. Akhirnya, pada hari yang ketiga, orang yang terbukti menjadi paling baik, persaingan satu lagi di bagian dengan emper di atas. Saya selalu menikmati menonton orang-orang menampilkan keterampilan mereka, dan keterampilan sangat terbukti di sini.

ENGLISH

For 3 days, there was a competition of rock climbing in Kendari. A large wall was erected for the use of this competition, in one corner of the large open area called MTQ. There were several regencies represented, all from Sulawesi Tenggara region. After this level of competition, there is a national competition for many sports, called Olympiad, where only the best people will compete.

On the first day, competitors must climb as fast as possible to the top of a wall. On the second day they must climb a wall with an overhang. Finally, on the third day, people who have proved to be best, compete again on the section with overhang.

I always enjoy watching people displaying their skills, and skill was very evident here.

Pesta di kost saya = Party at my kost

December 2014

BAHASA

Pada semalam minggu yang lalu, kost ibu saya, Ibu Sri, diajak saya ke pesta untuk orang dari tempat kerjanya. Kira-kira 20 orang datang. Untuk makan, ada ikan, udung, cumi-cumi yang seluruh, dan juga terung yang seluruh, yang semua dimasak di bara api. Untuk sayuran, saya makan salat membuat dengan buah segera yang pedas, dan juga kacang panjang yang campur dengan bahan lain yang potong-potong sangat halus. Ada tiga macam sambal - kecup, tomat, dan juga mangga yang sangat pedas! Sesudah itu, ada pisang goreng, salat buah termasuk lychee yang dengan menyegarkan. Juga ada bungkus daun adat. Setiap bungkus dikandung bentuk berwarna putih yang diisi dengan gula merah dan kelapa.

Saya bertemu dengan orang-orang yang ramah dan makan banyak makanan enak. Beruntung, gemuruh dan petir yang sudah ramalan untuk sore tidak tiba. 

ENGLISH

One night last week my kost landlady, Ibu Sri, invited me to a party for people from her workplace. About 20 people came. To eat there was fish, prawn, whole squid, and also whole eggplant, all cooked on BBQ. For vegetables, I ate spicy fresh fruit salad, and also long beans which were mixed with other finely chopped  ingredients. There were three types of sambal - ketchup, tomato, and also mango which was very spicy! After that, there was fried banana, refreshing fruit salad including lychees. Also there were traditional leaf packets. Each packet contained a white shape which was filled with red sugar and coconut.

I met with friendly people, and ate much delicious food. Fortunately, the thunderstorm which was forecast for the evening did not arrive.

Kost yang baru di Kendari, Sulawesi Tenggara = New kost in Kendari, SE Sulawesi

25 11 14

BAHASA

Dulu, saya sangat senang di kost di Wua Wua karena banyak berbelanja dan banyak-banyak tempat makan. Tahun ini, sukarelawan yang lain di Lepmil terhadap kost yang bagus di dekat kantor di Kemaraya, dan Yasril ingin sekali saya harus memindahkan ke sana. Kost yang baru saya hanya sepuluh menit oleh kaki dari kantornya, atau bahkan lebih cepat kalau seseduah terbenam matahari. Saya suka sekali kesempatan kost yang baru. Akan tetapi saya akan merindukan AC yang alam yang diberikan oleh naik sepeda motor ke kost semalam! 

Kelihatannya Wua Wua bangun pada jam lima sehari, sementara kebanyakan Mandonga, yang daerah berbelanja di dekat Kemaraya, sudah setengah tidur. Di Wua Wua ada kelab malam, tempat-tempat karaoke, dua toko departemen, tiga pasar swalayan, beberapa resoran, apotek yang modern, dua toko oleh-oleh, toko buku Gramedia, dan toko yang lebih baik untuk alat dan barang listrik di kota Kendari. Akhirnya, ada satu jalan yang penuh penjual buah.  Semua tempat ini buka tersisa sampai larut malam. Juga, setiap sore banyak warung yang baru dibangun di tepi jalan-jalan masak dan menyajikan makanan Indonesia enak: misalnya nasi goreng, ikan goreng, kelapa es, tempe penyet, ddl. 

Di Mandonga banyak toko kecil yang kehampiran tertutup oleh jam lima.  Kebingunan yang adalah bernama Mall, di mana mode adalah perdagangan yang paling penting, adalah hanya toko besar yang saya menemukan. Di sana, pembuka jam dengan jelas berbeda karena toko itu masih terbuka sesudah jam enam di malam. Selama setiap hari, pasar yang sangat besar ada di bawah dan di sekeliling gedung yang bernama Mall. Pasar itu bahkan lebih membingunkan daripada Mall sendiri, tetapi pasar itu tentu tertutup oleh jam lima. 

Sementara itu, kost yang baru saya sepi sekali. Ada lima kamar, tetapi saya hanya orang yang inap sekarang. Kost ini ada di halaman belakang rumah Pak dan Ibu Sri yang  sangat ramah dan baik hati. Ada dapur untuk berguna orang-orang yang inap dan akses ke kebun. 

ENGLISH

Previously, I was very happy in kost in Wua Wua because there is much shopping there and many places to eat. This year another LePMIL volunteer discovered a good kost near the office, in Kemaraya, and Yasril was very eager I should move there. My new kost is only 10 minute walk from office, or even quicker after sunset. I like the convenience of my new kost very much. However I will miss the natural air conditioning provided when riding a motor bike home each evening! 

While Wua Wua seems to wake up after 5.00pm each day, much of Mandonga, the shopping area near Kemaraya, is already half asleep. In Wua Wua there is a night club, karaoke places, two department stores, three supermarkets, several restaurants, a modern chemist, two oleh-oleh shops and the best tool and electrical shop in Kendari. Finally, there is one street of fruit sellers. All these places remain open till late. Also, many warung are set up each evening on the edge of the road to cook and serve delicious Indonesian food: for example, nasi goreng, ikan goreng, tempeh penyet etc.

In Mandonga there are many small shops which are mostly closed by 5.00. The confusion which is called the Mall, where fashion is the major trade, is the only big shop I have found. In that shop the opening hours are obviously different because still open after 6.00pm. During the day, a huge market exists under and around the building of the Mall, which is even more confusing than the Mall itself, but the market is surely closed by 5.00.

Meanwhile, my new kost is very quiet. There are five rooms, but I am the only person staying now. This kost is in the backyard of Pak and Ibu Sri who are very friendly and kind. There is kitchen for use of people who stay, and access to garden.

Kenalkan teman yang baru = Introducing new friend

20 November 2014

BAHASA
Di pesawat terbang dari Denpasar ke Makassar, tempat duduk saya di samping orang laki-laki yang berasal dari Pulau Buton, Sulawesi Tenggara. Dia bernama Yos.
Pulau itu juga tempat asal di teman saya Iradaf. Mudah-mudahan Daf akan mengantari saya ke Buton bulan depan.
Pekerjaan Yos adalah sebagai orang peneliti di daerah antropologi, di salah satu universitas di Jawa [saya terlupa yang mana]. Dia baru berkunjung ke Flores untuk penelitian, untuk hanya tiga hari. Kemudian mengingap hanya satu malam di Bali sebelum penerbangan kami ke Makassar. Bahkan sebelum penerbangan saya berangkat dari Makassar, Yos berikut penerbangan ke Solong, Papua Barat, untuk penerbangan yang jam lima lain!
Saya sangat tertarik kepada mengatakan dengan dia, walaupun demikian daerah khusus dia untuk penelitian adalah pariwisata. Saya sudah mengirakan tulang-tulang atau lukisan gua.

ENGLISH
In plane from Denpasar to Makassar, my seat was beside man originally from Buton Island di Sulawesi Tenggara. His name is Yos. Buton is alo where my friend, Daf, is from. Hopefully Daf will accompany me to Buton next month.
Yos's job is research in area of anthropolgy, in a university on Jawa [I forget which one]. He has just visited Flores for research, for only 3 days. Then stay one night in Bali before our flight to Makassar. Even before my flight departed from Makassar, Yos joined flight to Solong, West Papua, for flight which was another five hours!
I was very interested to talk with him, even though his special area for research is tourism. I was thinking bones or cave paintings.